Larry Chan

Mt Manaslu Expedition, By Larry CHAN, Hong Kong

Organizing Company : Trekker Nepal Pvt. Ltd. 

Period : 2022-09-02 to 2022-10-03

Mt. Manaslu, a very attractive name for a first time 8000 climber like me.  Mt. Manaslu is also regarded as a relatively easy mountain amongst the 14 Peaks (above 8000m).  Climbers always take that as a stepping stone for climbing Mt. Everest later on.  My ambition bears the same direction, because I had already done 3000m, 5000m and 7000m mountains.  It is obvious and necessary to test my physical at 8000m, just above the ‘Death Zone’ before going any further.

As a previous customer of Trekker Nepal Pvt. Ltd, and a friend of Wangda Sherpa, Managing Director of the Company, I sought advice from him in March 2022 without second thought.  Climbing a high mountain is no joke.  Climbing a high mountain above 8000m is, nevertheless, a life-threatening activity.  Wangda had soon prepared all the hardware and software for the expedition within that half-year period.  I also prepared myself physically and mentally, of course, at sea level altitude.

Time flied and soon the departure date arrived, i.e. 2^nd September 2022.  I landed on Kathmandu International Airport at midnight, and Wangda was waiting for me right outside the arrival hall.  Without worrying a bit, I moved into a comfortable and clean hotel, named HOTEL MUDITA.

After a few days of preparation on kits/ equipment and paper work, we took a jeep departing to Besishaha, where we changed to a more functional jeep to Dharapani.  Together with us were another Sherpa Gelgi and two other climbers, Xavier of Portuguese and Foad of Iranian.  Three of us were so excited about the coming challenge, as we were all the first time 8000 climbers.

From Dharapani, we started the 60km trekking towards the Base Camp.  It was not an easy trek, like that from Lukla to Mt. Everest Base Camp.  We had to pass through a high point of Larke Pass  at 5106m.  The elevation from 2000m to 5000m and then back to 3600m before reaching Base Camp at 4800m within the four days trek was a challenge to me.  I haven’t tried such quick ascend and descend before.  Therefore, I kept monitoring my body response during the trek.  Wangda and his team also looked after each and everyone carefully.  We all stayed comfortably in guesthouses during the trek, and all with hot water shower, which were unexpected for me.  Eventually we all arrived at Base Camp in good shape without any adverse symptoms.  Xavier and Foad had proven themselves as strong climbers in those four-days trek.  On the other hand, I kept my strategy as a slow but distant hiker.  When we were walking up the Base Camp, I met my personal Sherpa at around 4200m.  His name was Chhiring.

Out of my expectation, the arrangement of Trekker Nepal was marvelous.  The personal tent, canteen, kitchen, bathroom and toilet were neatly set up.  The personal tent was actually a single sleeping room size, which gave maximum privacy nd comfort to the climber.  I would say it was much better than the guest houses.  The chef was also tremendous, making each and every meal a unique and delicious one.  That helped a lot in the exhausting Base Camp routine. We also started our acclimatization, skill training and preparation as soon as we arrived the Base Camp.  Chhiring, Furi and Gelgi (The three personal Sherpa) for us had made all necessary arrangement for the climbing.  What we had to do was keeping our positive mentality and stamina.

From 10 September to 24 September, we went up and down to Camp 1, Camp 2.  I found myself acclimatized very well.  Skill-wise, I could manage the harsh climb, in particular from Camp 1 to Camp 2, more easily.  Chhiring, Furi and Gelgi were all very strong and helpful. They could carry 40-50kg pack, with faster walking speed than anyone of us.  I had also checked the SpO2 value of Chhiring at 6800m.  That was 100%.  Yes, I made it clear, it was 100%.  I was around 85%.  You could tell why they could handle all the activities like we were handling at sea level.

After series of training and acclimatization, we decided to go summit from 25 September, with summit push in early morning on 27 September.  We went to Camp 2 on 25 September.  Without any problem raised, we slept there for rest.  After a night of sleeping, we moved to Camp 3 on 26 September.  We arrived after two hours something, which was also within our expectation.  The weather was clear and reasonably good, without any strong wind.  But the smoothness was the precursor of disaster.  After reaching Camp 3 by noon, we witnessed an avalanche from the upper ridge above Camp 3.  From my guessing, it was about a kilometer away from us.  But the worst thing was some climbers were seen walking on the slope.  The avalanche was directly above them.  It only took some seconds to swipe the group of climbers and they soon disappeared from our sight.  It was really a disastrous happening.  Though we have heard about avalanche very often, it was the very first time we saw it directly on the mountain, which endangered a whole group of climbers.

After series of rescue actions, Wangda asked us if we would like to continue.  The Sherpas were ready to take us up if affirmative.  But he also advised us safety was their most prior concern over any other matters.  That said, we considered it really seriously.  That night, we stayed at Camp 3.  The synapses were crushed with loads of different ideas.  Wangda was really supportive and said he would do whatever we came up with.

Eventually I decided to return to Base Camp as the ‘Mountain is always there’.  Foad from Iran, however, would try his best to continue the summit push.  As Xavier and me were coming down towards the Base Camp, we heard it from Sherpas that there were some more avalanches happened near Camp 1 and Camp 2.  I was really unsure whether my decision was right or wrong.  We also worried about Foad’s situation.

After a night of resting in the Base Camp, I kicked off my return trip back to Kathmandu.  Then another terrifying video clip was propped up in social media.  Another avalanche happened near the Base Camp and destroyed some tents with injuries of some climbers.  The information also mentioned there were some death cases.  I was totally depressed.  But there was obviously some luck amongst our team.

To sum up, my climbing trip was not regarded as a successful one.  That was a call by the nature.  Human being is just too tiny to get hold of the situation.  However, Trekker Nepal supported us in an utmost professional and serious manner.  They cared not only the result, but the safety of their clients.  That gave us tremendous confidence to forget about any worries in our heads.  Climbing is not a one-off activity.  What we should learn is the rule of the nature.  I will definitely get back to Nepal for another climb, and Trekker Nepal is my first choice for sure.